Cozy Tablet Tote
©2021 by Stacy Wilkinson
The Cozy Tablet Tote is a stylish way to store your tablet. It’s easily modified to fit any of your gizmos that may need a tote. This is designed to be a quick and easy gift to make. Enjoy!
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Difficulty level: Easy-ish
Written in US Terms
Stitches used: Ch (Chain), Dc (Double Crochet), FpDc (Front Post Double Crochet), FpSc (Front Post Single Crochet), FSc (Foundation Single Crochet), Standing Sc (Standing Single Crochet), Sc (Single Crochet), Sc2tog (Single Crochet 2 Together), Sc3tog (Single Crochet 3 together)
Red Heart (100% Acrylic; 100g / 7 oz; 333m / 364 yd; Worsted Size 4 yarn)
Color A - Dusty Grey: 56 yards
Color B - Scuba: 130 yards
Color C - White: 37 yards
Crochet Hook size 4.5mm / G+ - My favorite to use is Furls Odyssey; You can get yours here!
2 Lockable stitch markers (Optional) I use these for indicating where my first and last stitches made are located - this makes for straight edges
Button (I used a .75” button), sewing needle and sewing thread
Gauge: 14 sts x 15 rows = 4” using sc
Measures: 8”x10” without flap, 8” x 14” with flap opened
• There is a tutorial for the main panel stitch, called the Alpine Stitch. Click here to see tutorial.
• To adjust width, you can add or subtract stitches in mulitples of 2; to adjust height, add or omit rows of the “Alpine Section” as desired.
• Ch 1 at the beginning of row does not count as a stitch
• Leave the yarn tails long (approximately 12” - 18”) as you finish each section for ease of sewing the panels together.
• To keep your edges straight & not loose track of where the ch-2 on some rows are, I use a stitch marker at the first sc made on any sc rows and in the second ch of the ch-2 on dc rows.
• The second panel is worked by joining in your FSC row, therefore eliminating some seaming; if you prefer to work 2 separate panels, you can do so by working panel 1 two times.
Row 1: With MC, make 30 FSc, turn
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), work 1 sc in same st and in each
st across, turn. (30 sc)
Rows 3 - 7: Repeat row 2 for 5 more rows with Color A (Grey)
Row 8: Repeat row 2 with Color C (White)
Alpine Section Directions
• This panel always starts on the Wrong Side
• To see a video tutorial of the Alpine Stitch, click here.
• When drawing up first loop of FpDc, bring the loop to the height of the current dc to avoid puckering or pulling on this row (it should lay flat)
• When working a FpDc, be sure NOT to work the st behind it, as you’ve already worked that stitch, only 2 rows below.
With Color B (Scuba)
Row 9: WS: Ch 1, work 1 sc in same st in ea st across, turn. (30 sc)
Row 10: RS: Ch 2 (counts as dc), 1 dc in next st & in ea st across, turn. (30 dc)
Row 11: WS: Ch 1, work 1 sc in same st in ea st across, (being sure not to miss the top of the ch-2), turn. (30 sc)
Row 12: RS: Ch 2 (counts as dc), 1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, *FpDc around next dc post 2 rows below, (the 5th post from the edge), 1 dc in next st; rep * until 2 st remains, 1 dc in ea of last 2 sts, turn. (12 FpDc, 18 dc)
Row 13: WS: Rep row 11
Row 14: RS: Ch 2 (counts as dc), 1 dc in ea of next 4 sts *FpDc around next dc post 2 rows below, 1 dc in next st; rep * until 3 sts rem, 1 dc in ea of last 3 sts, turn. (11 FpDc, 19 dc)
Row 15: WS: Rep row 11
Row 16: RS: Rep row 12
Row 17: WS: Rep row 11, switch to Color C (White) and break color B (Scuba) leaving a longer yarn tail for seaming later.
Single Crochet Transition
Row 18: RS: With Color C, rep row 9; switch to Color A (Grey) and break Color C.
Row 19: WS: With Color A, rep row 9; switch to Color C (White) and break Color A.
Row 20: RS: With Color C, rep row 9; switch to Color B (Scuba), and break Color C.
Alpine Section 2
Rows 21 - 29: With Color B (Scuba), repeat rows 9-17, switch to color C (White) and break Color B
Row 30: With Color C, rep row 18, switching to Color A (Grey) and break Color C.
Rows 31 - 37: With Color A, rep row 2; fasten off.
This panel will start by joining in the original foundation made at the beg of Panel 1.
With Panel 1 upside down and wrong side facing, join Color A in right corner. Join with standing sc and work 1 sc in ea st across, turn. (30 sc)
Repeat Panel 1 starting with row 2 and fasten off when completed.
With the right sides facing you, fold your panel in half. This is to make sure all the stripes line up correctly. Then, unfold the panel and fold it in half with the right sides facing each other (the wrong side should be showing on the exterior now. While sandwiching the piece, use your yarn tails to seam the pouch together on the wrong side. For simplicity, you can loosely tie the yarn tails that meet up together or use stitch markers to hold it all in place. Use a tapestry needle to sew the panel sides together and turn the pouch right side out. Whew - you’ve completed the biggest section. It’s all easy peasy from here on out.
With Color C (White), join in a seamed corner stitch with a standing sc (Insert stitch marker in top of this stitch for ease of joining); work 1 sc in each st around top of pouch, joining with sl st to top of standing sc (where the sm is), fasten off and weave in ends. Depending on how you seamed your pouch, you should have approximately 60 sc.
If you prefer to sew in a zipper, this would be a good time to do so. And, if you prefer not to do the closure flap, then your pouch is finished!
Look at your pouch and decide which side will be the front and which side will be the back. With the front side facing you, looking at the WS of the back (Basically, it’s open and your looking inside), place a sm in the top of the middle of the back where the Top Border is. Then, count 12 sts to the left (including the st that has the sm) and place a sm or a scrap piece of yarn around the post of the st one row below the Top Border. Then, count 12 sts to the right (including the st that has the sm) and place another sm or scrap piece of yarn around the post of the st one row below the Top Border. Remove the middle sm. Your flap will be worked between where the left and right stitch markers are. Take another look to see if your happy with that placement. If it doesn’t seem centered, you can shift it over a stitch or two, just make sure that you shift both stitch markers; there will be 23 sts worked.
Turn pouch wrong side out; you will be working this section flat.
Row 1: With Color A, join with standing FpSc to post with sm, work 1 FpSc in ea of the next 22 sts, turn and remove stitch markers. (23 sc)
Rows 2 - 4: Ch 1, work 1 sc in ea st across, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in ea st to the last 2, sc2tog, turn. (21 sc)
Rep row 5. (19 sc)
Rep row 5. (17 sc)
Rep row 5. (15 sc)
Rep row 5. (13 sc)
Rep row 5. (11 sc)
Rep row 5. (9 sc)
Rep row 5. (7 sc)
Rep row 5. (5 sc)
Rep row 5. (3 sc)
Ch 1, sc3tog, fasten off.
For these last rows, you will only be working the two sides of the flap that fold over (not the part that connects to the body of the tote).
• With Color B and RS facing, join with standing sc to top corner where the flap begins at the body of the pouch. Work 1 sc in ea st down the edge, working (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in corner where the sc3tog is located, then continue to work 1 sc in ea st on edge, joining to sc that is located on tote body. Fasten off.
• With Color C, Rep row 16, except in ch-2 sp work (1 dc, *ch5, 1dc). Fasten off. (You may need to add or subtract the ch quantity to adjust for your button size. Make sure that this fits snuggly and not too loose or too tight to secure the button.)
• Determine button placement and sew on button to the pouch.
• Weave in all ends and enjoy!
I’d love to see yours - please take pictures, tag me on social media with #handmadebystacyj and link to the Ravelry project page!
You are welcome to gift and sell your makes from this pattern. All I ask is that you credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer and to please purchase the ad free pdf. Thank you!
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